Method for making an article conformable to a variably shaped cylindrical surface

ABSTRACT

The disclosure relates to a method for making an article capable of conforming to a substantially cylindrical surface. The surface is partitioned into a pattern of diamond-shaped segments by constructing a plurality of substantially arcuate intersecting diagonals on the surface of the cylinder. Flexible planar material is formed into elements corresponding to the diamondshaped segments. Each of the elements comprises a different diamond-shaped component part corresponding to a different segment. The elements are then fastened together to form a diamond-shaped pattern of planar material conformable to the cylindrical surface. The cylindrical surface can be varying in nature, such as barrel-shaped, truncated pyramidal or spherical.

United States Patent 1191 OBryant METHOD FOR MAKING AN ARTICLECONFORMABLE TO A VARIABLY SHAPED CYLINDRICAL SURFACE [76] Inventor: MaryLouetta OBryant, 304

Fontana Pl., N.E., Albuquerque, N. Mex. 87108 [22] Filed: Dec. 10, 1973[21] Appl. No.: 423,069

' [52] US. Cl 2/243 B [51] Int. Cl A41h 3/00 [58] Field of Search 2/1,47, 65, 69.5, 74,

2/88, 89, 90, 211, 216, 217, 243 R, 243 A1243 B; 52/80, 81

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,292,316 12/1966 Zeinetz52/81 3,530,620 9/1970 Heieren 52/81 3,710,806 l/l973 Kelly et a1 52/81X FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 1,191,776 10/1959 France 52/81 1 Apr.15, 1975 593,639 3/1959 Italy 2/243 R Primary Examiner-Werner H.Schroeder Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Robert W. Weig ABSTRACT Thedisclosure relates to a method for making an article capable ofconforming to a substantially cylindrical surface. The surface ispartitioned into a pattern of diamond-shaped segments by constructing aplurality of substantially arcuate intersecting diagonals on the surfaceof the cylinder. Flexible planar material is formed into elementscorresponding to the diamond- Shaped segments. Each of the elementscomprises a different diamond-shaped component part corresponding to adifferent segment. The elements are then fastened together to form adiamond-shaped pattern of planar material conformable to the cylindricalsurface. The cylindrical surface can be varying in nature, such asbarrel-shaped, truncated pyramidal or spherical.

9 Claims, 21 Drawing Figures M'JENTEBA I 5 I95 SfiZET 4 UF 6 Fig. 6 0

Fig. 60

Back View Front View PATENTEDAPRISIHYS a 877 079 SHEET 5 o METHOD FORMAKING AN ARTICLE CONFORMABLE TO A VARIABLY SHAPED CYLINDRICAL SURFACEFIELD OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a method for making anarticle capable of conforming to a substantially cylindrical surface andmore particularly to a method of making such an article comprisingdiamond-shaped elements of planar material.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION In the manufacture of clothing, in order toconform a flat planar material into an article capable of conforming tothe curves of the human body, one must pleat, dart, or gather thematerial in accordance with the shape of the human body. Doing thisfrequently distorts the pattern in the material, causing nonconformitiestherein, as well as anomalies on the surface thereof.

Although the human body can be said to be substantially cylindrical, thecircumference of a cylindrical portion of an article of clothing variesat different points thereon and the rate of change of the circumfer enceof the cylinder also varies at different points thereon. Most articlesof clothing may be partitioned into several cylindrical components whichcover the trunk, the arms and the legs. An article of clothing coveringthe body may be substantially cylindrical in its entirety, such as afull length dress, or it may comprise a substantially cylindrical trunkportion and cylindrical portions that cover the arms, such as thesleeves of a shirt. Pants comprise a short cylindrical top portion andtwo longer cylindrical portions of approximately equal size. In formingany of these articles of clothing, one must typically use darts, pleats,or gathers to make clothing which suitably fits the human body frompiecegoods or yardgoods.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In accordance with the invention, there isprovided a method for making an article of clothing, or other articlecapable of conforming to a substantially cylindrical surface. The methodcomprises partitioning the cylindrical surface of interest intodiamond-shaped segments by constructing a plurality of substantiallyarcuate intersecting diagonals thereacross. The average degree ofcurvature of the diagonals at any one point is related to thecircumference of the cylinder and the rate of change of thecircumference of the cylinder at such a point. Elements, formed from anyplanar material desired, and which comprise diamond-shaped componentparts corresponding to the diamond-shaped segments constructed upon thecylindrical surface, may be fastened together, or packaged in a kit, sothat one may later fasten the elements together. The diamondshapedsegments and/or their corresponding elements may be appropriatelylabelled so that the article may be easily made from them. In addition,the cylindrical sur face may be partitioned into several pluralities ofequivalent diamond-shaped segments to yield pluralities ofinterchangeable elements. Thus, a desired one of several possibledesigns may be incorporated into the article made if several differentcolors or patterns of piecegoods are used to make the elements.

One object of the present invention is to provide an article of clothingsuitably conformable to the human body and which is free of darts,pleats or gathers.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an article ofclothing made from elements comprising diamond-shaped component partshaving an attractive design.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide ss an articlecomprising a plurality of elements comprising diamond-shaped componentparts of planar material capable of conforming to a selectedsubstantially cylindrical surface.

Still another object of the present invention is to pro vide a pluralityof elements comprising diamondshaped component parts which may befastened'together into an article of clothing comprising any one of apossible plurality of colorful designs.

One advantage of the present invention is that in accordance therewith,a pleatless, dartless and gatherless article of clothing may be made.

Another advantage of the present invention is that in accordancetherewith, an article of clothing can be made into a desired one ofseveral possible designs from several pluralities of different andinterchangeable elements comprising diamond-shaped component parts.

Another advantage of the present invention is that kits may be providedof elements comprising diamondshaped component parts for assembly intoat least one of a possible plurality of designs.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention will be apparentto those skilled in the art from the following description withreference to the appended drawings, wherein like numbers denote likeparts and wherein:

FIG. 1 shows a simple straight cylinder divided into diamond-shapedsegments with intersecting diagonals;

FIG. 2 shows a cylinder or truncated cone which has a constant rate ofchange of circumference divided into diamond-shaped segments inaccordance with the invention;

FIG. 3 shows the cylindrical surface of FIG. 2, as divided intodiamond-shaped segments, laid flat;

FIGS. 4a-d show several embodiments of the invention illustrating thediamond-shaped segments of the invention;

FIGS. Sa-d show several exemplary embodiments of cylindrical surfaceshaving essentially diamond-shaped segments constructed thereon inaccordance with the invention;

FIGS. 6a-e show skirts constructed in accordance with the inventionillustrating some possible designs incorporating interchangeablepluralities of diamondshaped component parts; and

FIGS. 7a-e show how articles of clothing may comprise portions thereofconstructed in accordance with the method of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Reference is now made to FIG. 1which shows a simple straight cylindrical surface 10 partitioned intodiamond-shaped segments by two sets of substantially parallelintersecting diagonals l2 and 14 constructed thereon. In FIG. 1, thecylindrical surface is traced by moving a straight line parallel to andat a fixed distance from a stationary straight line (the axis of thecylinder formed). In the FIG. 1 cylinder, all intersecting diago- 3 nalsare clearly parallel with one another. If the cylindrical surface isopened and laid flat, the diagonals form straight lines, i.e., thediagonals have infinite radii of curvature. Too, the diamond-shapedsegments of surface It) are equivalent, i.e., equal in size .and shape.

FIG. 2 illustrates a cylindrical surface 14, which may also be termed atruncated cone. The FIG. 2 cylindrical surface is generated by a pointwhich always moves so that the ratio of its distance from a fixed pointto its distance from a fixed line is constant. Hence, the diagonals ineach set of diagonals, l8 and 20, I will call substantially oressentially" parallel because they do not intersect, although thesmaller the circumference of the cylinder becomes, the closer togethercome the parallel diagonals.

The cylindrical surface 16 of FIG. 2, laid out on a flat surface,appears in FIG. 3. Diagonals 20, as shown herein, are essentially orsubstantially arcuate, and form substantially or essentiallydiamondshaped segments as shown in FIGS. ta-d.

In FIG. 4a, the diagonals curve continuously in the same direction. InFIG. 4b, the diagonals curve continuously, but cyclically, such as in asine wave on an axis having a large radius of curvature (the basiccurvature of one of the diagonals shown in FIG. 3). The FIG. 4cdiagonals are similar to those of FIG. 4b but intersect differently.Too, one set of diagonals may be cyclically curved such as those ofFIGS. 4b or 4c whereas the other set of diagonals may comprise diagonalswhich continuously curve in the same direction such as those of FIG. 4a.In the preferred embodiment of the invention the diagonals areessentially or substantially arcuate, and formed of straight-line partssuch as shown in FIG. 4d. Substantially or essentially arcuate diagonalsmay also comprise combinations and/or permutations of straight-lineparts, cyclically curved, and/or continously curved parts to form otheressentially or substantially diamond-shaped segments. One could alsoalternate the form of diagonals in any set of parallel diagonals to formseveral types of diamond-shaped segments in a pattern or at random. Itwill be appreciated that the substantially or essentially diamond-shapedsegments shown in FIGS. 4a-e are illustrative only, and other variationsof substantially or essentially diamondshaped segments not shown butwithin the scope of the invention, will be apparent to those skilled inthe art.

The cylindrical surfaces of FIGS. 1 and 2 are constructed so that theyare circular in cross-section and their elements of rotation:, i.e.,lines in their surfaces in a common plane with their axes of symmetry,are straight lines. FIG. 5a illustrates a barrel-shaped cylindricalsurface having convex elements of rotation, whereas FIG. 5b shows acylindrical surface having concavely curved elements of rotation. FIG.5c shows a conically cylindrical surface having convex elementsofrotation and FIG. 5d shows a conically cylindrical surface havingconcave elements of rotation. All of these cylindrical surfaces may haveintersecting sets of substantially or essentially parallel, essentiallyor sub stantially arcuate diagonals constructed thereon to formdiamondshaped segments in accordance the invention. 7 g

It will be apparent to those'skilled in the art that the cylindricalsurfaces shown are exemplary only and that other more complexcylindrical surfaces which are non-circular in cross-section, andindeed,which may randomly or otherwise symmetrically or unsymmetrically vary incross-sectional shape and dimensions may be partitioned intosubstantially diamond-shaped segments in accordance with the invention.

As heretofore pointed out, articles of clothing generally comprisecylindrical shapes. For example, a shirt, jacket or blouse may comprisea tapered or untapered substantially cylindrical body, and twocylindrical sleeves. Pants comprise two cylindrical leg portions joinedat one end into a somewhat shorter, but widerin-diameter, trunk fittingportion. Skirts and dresses comprise cylindrical surfaces of varyingdiameter and shape.

In accordance with the invention, an article of clothing can be madefrom planar elements of yardgoods, piecegoods, leather or other suchmaterial, flexible or inflexible, comprising substantiallydiamond-shaped component parts. As stated above, by practicing theinvention, one can eliminate the need for darts, pleats or gathers in anarticle of clothing. And, by eliminating darts, pleats or gathers, onecan preserve a particular pattern or design, inconsistency and anomalyfree.

It is clear that by varying the shape and the size of the diamond-shapedsegments, the garment can be conformed to the cylindrical surface ofinterest without pleats, darts or gathers.

In making an article of clothing, or a portion thereof, in accordancewith the invention, one preferably follows this method:

A pattern of diamond-shaped segments is developed by constructingintersecting sets of pluralities of essentially parallel diagonals onthe cylindrical surface of interest. One may sometimes make a selectedcylinder of planar material, such as paper, and lay it flat beforeconstructing diamond shapes thereon. This is not always possible becausesome cylindrical surfaces, such as those of FIGS. Sa-a', as well asother more complex cylinders can not be laid flat. Individualdiamondshaped segments are then cut out of'the pattern, after preferablyappropriately labelling them as exemplarily shown in FIG. 4a. Thispattern making step may be eliminated and diamond-shaped segmentsdirectly constructed on the yardgoods if one is sufficiently skilled inthe art. a

The yardgoods, piecegoods, or any planar material the seamstress wantsto use may then be cut or formed in accordance with the diamond-shapedsegment pattern. The goods are preferably labelled as the pattern ofsegments for identification of elements, as shown in FIG. 4a. As knownto those skilled in the garment arts, pieces of fabric are usually notcut to abut, but rather to overlap so that they may be sewn togethersecurely without danger of raveling or otherwise coming apart. Thus, theelements which comprise diamond-shaped component parts are larger thantheir corresponding segments in order to provide sufficient material tocover said segments by a convenient margin.

The elements are fastened together as labelled. In most cases, some ofthe diamond-shaped segments will be equivalent and-hence theircorresponding elements will be interchangeable.Different elements may beformed from different fabrics having various colors and/or patterns. Theelements may then be combined to provide a desired design on thefinished article of clothing. If interchangeable pluralities of elementsare i used, a varietyof designs are possible from given different elemen ts. ..An example of design varietyattainable from a given pattern isshown in the skirts of FIGS.

6a-e. In the skirts of FIGS. 6u-e, at the waist, the diamond-shapedsegments are comparatively narrow and tall, but as one looks lower andlower on the skirt, each successive row of diamonds becomes wider andshorter until near its middle the diamonds are substantially square.Below the middle of the skirt the diamonds get wider and shorter, beingwider than they are tall. Therefore, one can see that in any one row ona rotationally symmetrical cylindrical skirt, the elements areinterchangeable. The waist and hem comprise diamonds cut in half, orotherwise truncated.

FIGS. 7a-e illustrate how portions of almost any article of clothing maybe made by practicing the invention. Note the morning glory sleeves inthe dress of FIG. 71). Morning glory sleeves are fuller about theircircumferences than a complete circle and can be made pleatless,dartless and gatherless to preserve the diamond pattern in accordancewith the invention.

The pants and sleeves of the pants-suit of FIG. 7a and the lowerportions of the dress of FIG. 70 comprise conically sphericalcylindrical surfaces such as that of FIG. 2. The trumpet or puffedsleeves of FIG. 7e comprise diamond-shaped segments in accordance withthe invention and are pleatless, gatherless and dartless, preserving adiamond pattern.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, diamondshaped segments and diamond shaped component parts comprise rhombi, asseen particularly clearly in FIG. 4d. As shown therein, all the rhombiin a selected article of clothing are equilateral and all the sides ofall the rhombi in the article are of equal length. The articleillustrated in FIG. 4d will be a skirt if the two sides are joinedtogether. As can be seen from the Figure, at and near the waistline, therhombi are comparatively tall and narrow. Further down, the rhombi aresquare, and at or near the bottom, the rhombi are short and wide.Nevertheless, all the rhombi in the skirt have sides of equal length.Each row has the same number of rhombi in it as any other row. Too, thediamond shaped parts in a particular row around the skirt are identicalin size and shape and are therefore interchangeable. This is becausethis particular skirt is symmetric about its axis of revolution, animaginary line running from the lower hemline to the waistline throughthe center of the skirt enclosed volume.

The various features and advantages of the invention are thought to beclear from the foregoing description. However, various other featuresand advantages not specifically enumerated will undoubtedly occur tothose versed in the art, as likewise will many variations andmodifications of the embodiments illustrated herein, all of which may beachieved without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention asdefined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A method of making elements for forming a cylindrical portion of anarticle of clothing, from elements of planar material comprisingessentially diamondshaped component parts, the method comprising thesteps of:

conforming a flexible sheet of a first material to the desiredcylindrical shape;

constructing intersecting groups of quasi-parallel diagonals on thefirst material to form essentially dia mond-shaped segments thereon;

labelling the segments to establish their juxtapositional relationshipto one another on the surface; and

cutting a second planar material to provide elements comprisingdiamond-shaped component parts, every one of the component partscorresponding to a different one of the segments of the first material.

2. The invention of claim 1 further comprising fastening the elements ofthe second material together in accordance with the juxta-positionalrelationship of corresponding segments in the first material to form thecylindrical portion of an article of clothing conformable to the desiredcylindrical surface.

3. The invention of claim 1 further comprising labelling the elements ofthe second material so that they can be juxta-positioned in the samerelationship to one another as their corresponding segments of the firstmaterial are to one another.

4. The invention of claim I further comprising labelling the edges ofthe elements ofthe second material so that they are identifiable forfastening in an appropriate juxta-positional relationship to form theportion of the article of clothing.

5. The invention of claim 1 wherein arcuate diagonals are constructed.

6. The invention of claim 1 wherein essentially arcuate diagonalscomprising straight-line parts are constructed.

7. The invention of claim 1 wherein the second material comprises aplurality of piecegoods visually distinguishable from one another andelements formed of the plurality of piecegoods are fastenable togetherin a plurality of visually ascertainable designs comprising essentiallydiamond shapes.

8. The invention of claim 7 wherein the diagonals are constructed toprovide at least one plurality of essentially identical diamond-shapedsegments, so that essentially identical elements comprising differentpiecegoods are interchangeable with one another to enable them to befastened together into a desired one of several designs.

9. An article of clothing, at least one part of which is made accordingto the method of claim 8.

1. A method of making elements for forming a cylindrical portion of anarticle of clothing, from elements of planar material comprisingessentially diamond-shaped component parts, the method comprising thesteps of: conforming a flexible sheet of a first material to the desiredcylindrical shape; constructing intersecting groups of quasi-paralleldiagonals on the first material to form essentially diamond-shapedsegments thereon; labelling the segments to establish theirjuxta-positional relationship to one another on the surface; and cuttinga second planar material to provide elements comprising diamond-shapedcomponent parts, every one of the component parts corresponding to adifferent one of the segments of the first material.
 2. The invention ofclaim 1 further comprising fastening the elements of the second materialtogether in accordance with the juxta-positional relationship ofcorresponding segments in the first material to form the cylindricalportion of an article of clothing conformable to the desired cylindricalsurface.
 3. The invention of claim 1 further comprising labelling theelements of the second material so that they can be juxta-positioned inthe same relationship to one another as their corresponding segments ofthe first material are to one another.
 4. The invention of claim 1further comprising labelling the edges of the elements of the secondmaterial so that they are identifiable for fastening in an appropriatejuxta-positional relationship to form the portion of the article ofclothing.
 5. The invention of claim 1 wherein arcuate diagonals areconstructed.
 6. The invention of claim 1 wherein essentially arcuatediagonals comprising straight-line parts are constructed.
 7. Theinvention of claim 1 wherein the second material comprises a pluralityof piecegoods visually distinguishable from one another and elementsformed of the plurality of piecegoods are fastenable together in aplurality of visually ascertainable designs comprising essentiallydiamond shapes.
 8. The invention of claim 7 wherein the diagonals areconstructed to provide at least one plurality of essentially identicaldiamond-shaped segments, so that essentially identical elementscomprising different piecegoods are interchangeablE with one another toenable them to be fastened together into a desired one of severaldesigns.
 9. An article of clothing, at least one part of which is madeaccording to the method of claim 8.